I love Paris in the rain

•July 7, 2011 • Leave a Comment

August 9, 2009

We arrived in Paris on Friday morning. We had stayed up the entire night before for an official Dublin Pub Crawl.

The previous night was fun. We were led to new pubs, and our entire MSU group was together for the first time since the beginning of the trip.

Despite many hidden pub treasures, we somehow ended the night at two of our usual hangouts. Portherhouse Central where American music is the main source of excitement for tourists and locals and the Purdy Kitchen where Irish sleeze balls thrive at the site of a female body.

The morning after these places sound terrible (because they are) but for some reason with a drunken glow, techno and sweaty Irish men are appealing. All the pubs close by 12:30 in Ireland so we seem to always make our way to those clubs.

That said, it was a rough plane ride to the city of love. Actually I’m not sure if it was rough because within 30 seconds of warming up my squeaky airline seat, I was asleep.

The words, “It is 28 and sunny here in Paris,” are something I wouldn’t mind waking up to again soon, hangover and all.

After our hostel days in Belfast, my travel partner and I decided to fork out the few extra euros needed to stay in a hotel. With the budget still tight, we ended up at a Holiday Inn, good for our wallets and our travel nerves.

The first obstacle came on our taxi ride from the airport. With my wrinkly list of French phrases, I was prepared to chat up the driver until we realized we didn’t write down the address of our hotel.

We muttered and sputtered and occasionally injected Holiday Inn, but our first French friend was baffled and offended. Through jibberish and hand motions, we agreed on City Centre.

48 euro later we were amidst quaint cafes, neo-classical buildings, and statues embellished with gold.

I had been told Paris is romantic.

“Your heart will melt.”

“You’ll want to fall in love.”

“Paris is for lovers.”

Those words are completely trivialize the romance of that city.

While all those things are true, they really just don’t sum up the romance that is Paris. Before this weekend, I was bewildered. People are romantic, lives are romantic, cultures are romantic, food is romantic. So many things are romantic. Yes, cities have personality and zeal. Some are romantic and I’m sure Paris is just that, I thought.

But it is true. With each block we walked in the city center, my heart softened. The architecture echoes with age and knowledge and the people stare cooly into the distance unaware of everyone else.

Golden statues juxtaposed against the bluest sky and cafes on every corner with petite, round tables.

I felt like an outsider surrounded by unresponsive locals seemingly analyzing Botticelli and DaVinci while I pondered the pronunciation of Champs De Elysee.

I don’t know what it was but Paris was truly magnetic.

We had a carb heavy breakfast: croissants, french bread, sweet rolls and coffee. We were served by a handsome French man critically giggling at our attempts to speak French from a lined piece of paper.

After breakfast, we sought out a wireless cafe to track our Parisian accommodations, the Holiday Inn, our American haven within the city of love.

After a battle with google France, we had our address and hoped for a much cheaper cab ride. We made it to the hotel and we’re wide eyed when the concierge greeted us in French. We made our best attempts to articulate the romantic words but it only took one twangy “Bon jour” for her to launch a new beginning in English.

The Holiday Inn in Paris is no different than in the U.S.– a bit dingy and worn but sufficient for the cost.

After checking in, we were directed to the metro. We mastered our French basics and Parisian transportation in no time.

We rode to the Eiffel Tour where we chose a welcoming cafe. We savored our dinner, and I branched away from my vegetarianism for a taste of frog legs. The meaty texture irked me at first but the flavor and fresh tomato sauce rectified my fear.

My dining partner fulfilled all American stereotypes with her request for a cheeseburger and inquires about ranch dressing and extra ketchup.

We left dinner and wandered the streets of Paris, slowly making our way to the Louvre. I couldn’t stop taking photographs and eventually my memory card protested. We were pestered by the street artists, haggled by restaurant owners and gaped at by many. I tried so hard to blend but it seemed impossible for tall, blonde Americans to camouflage with mysterious French women in skinny jeans.

The Louvre was overwhelming, and it was impossible to take in all of the artwork. It is beyond me to analyze that much artwork in one visit and I could have spent more than my entire 3-day Paris holiday in one wing of the building.

On our way in for the night, we stopped at a roadside stand for crepes — nutella, whip cream, cheese, banana, strawberry. The options were infinite.

After demolishing our crepes, I attempted to use my broken French in search of an ATM. The crepe master laughed and responded in a perfect American accent.

“There’s one just around the corner.”

The next morning we woke up long before the city, had another carb heavy breakfast and began to explore the city.

It was a long, exhausting day and we ended our day observing the immense Louis Vuitton store on Champs De Elysee. As we dodged our final French inquiry about bags and trunks, rain awoke French shoppers and tourists. Umbrellas shot up, newspapers and magazines were given new life as their words ran away and feet of all sizes scattered and slid.

In our American spite, we too covered our heads and ran for the nearest cafe. We chose a budget-friendly wine and received it with a bowl of doritos. How very French.

We ended our day in Paris with a block of brie, a loaf of fresh bread and a cheap bottle of champagne underneath the Eiffel Tower.

On deadline

•July 7, 2011 • Leave a Comment

August 5, 2009

The time is flying by. We only have a week left at Trinity. It was a busy week. We’re all behind on school work and I think my peers are finally feeling deadline pressure.

My journalist mindset means I’m just now thriving with school work and floating through reading journals and event reviews.

I took some more time to explore Dublin on my own this week. I feel a little less of tourist when I get lost by myself rather than with a slew of my American compatriots.

I splurged on a nice lunch at a French cafe the other day. I’m getting a bit tired of Irish food an the endless sides of chips.

I ordered simply what the waiter suggested at the cafe. He chose a brie and rocket baguette with a side of spicy tomato soup. I love the excess of sandwiches with brie here.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a splurge without a dessert, and my 8 euro treat was worth every cent. With layers of dark chocolate, coffee and freshly whipped cream, I was extremely glad to be eating alone.

Time alone in Dublin has allowed me to truly assimilate the local life. With my spattered freckles, I might just fit in until I utter my first twangy word.

Ireland is a lively, English-speaking country and I think I’m starting to really fit in, but this weekend I’m heading to Paris.

Other than Mexico for family vacations, I haven’t spent much time in a city with a primary language that isn’t English.

A friend of mine has written down a few essential French phrases for the trip, and I look forward to mastering them crepe or baguette in hand.

It will be hard to leave Ireland with so little time here, but I have a good feeling about Paris.

The falling action

•July 7, 2011 • Leave a Comment

August 3, 2009

After our weekend excursion, a Trinity reunion felt so right. So of course a group of us headed to the pubs, danced to some Michael Jackson and enjoyed everything we had missed over the weekend.

It is so good to be back in Dublin. WIth familiar streets and favorite pubs, it is so much easier to navigate the night when you know where the beers are cheapest and the crowd the friendliest.

Despite a faster pace than I am used to, Dublin is really starting to feel like home. Life before Trinity College seems light-years away. I can’t imagine going home at night without flashing my I.D. to a surly Irish security guard.

With only two weeks left, I’m not really sure what to think. Ireland has found a special place in my heart. While I miss American conveniences like unlimited salad dressing options, strong deodorant and wireless Internet at all hours, I am sure I’ll leave a little piece of me behind among the rolling hills of Ireland.

I saw studying abroad as a chance to escape my mundane life in Michigan. While the adventures were many and the romance of studying in a foreign country still woos me, I discovered my life is actually quite far from mundane.

I discovered that I am really quite American. I love mingling with the Irish and learning about the world around me. I have boundless appreciation for other cultures and my interest will never cease, but one of the most important lessons I have learned is that the life I lead is just as charming and full as those around me.

I’ve always known I was blessed and spoiled but the this time has allowed me to truly cherish my heritage.

My mind is challenged everyday, and I think I’ll look at my cozy college campus with bright eyes in a new way because of my time here. But I will always miss Trinity a little.

An unofficial pub crawl

•July 7, 2011 • Leave a Comment

August 2, 2009

After a smooth train ride with through endless emerald countryside, we made it to Belfast.

After a short walk from the train station, we found our hostel, the Linen House, tucked between brick buildings in an alley.

I was a little more than nervous for my first shared lodging experience. I openly call myself a germaphob, and I wasn’t sure what to expect from a “8-bed” room for a low low price of 20 pounds.

After check-in and towel rental, my hostel awe faded and we checked out the master suite. Other than the dingy Cinderella comforter on my paper thin mattress, the place wasn’t terrible. We were lucky to have 6 in our group so there would only be two mysterious roomies. The room was dark with wood paneling on the walls and one large creaky window. With four shoddy bunk beds, it felt eerily similar to 6th grade camp. I was less than thrilled about sleeping that weekend.

We were so busy the week prior to Belfast that we decided we wanted a very relaxed weekend to simply experience the culture of Northern Ireland in a spontaneous way.

We headed out for lunch, and found a cute pub with lunch specials and multiple veggie options. I had a Mediterranean vegetable tartlet – one of my favorite meals in Ireland so far. But the real gem at this meal was a perfectly frothy Irish coffee. After our first cocktail, there was just no stopping us and we decided to experience Belfast pub culture that afternoon.

We hopped around from charming pub to pub and even found one with homemade cupcakes enjoyed properly with a pint of Guinness.

We made friends with a group of young Irish men who went on about Gaelic football and hurling. They also got quite offended when we referred to Northern Ireland as Northern Ireland demanding that Belfast and all of Ulster are simply part of the Republic.

Irish history makes it clear that this is a sensitive subject and while we knew the situation, I was surprised that the Irish do not even acknowledge the existence of Northern Ireland.

Sadly by about 8 p.m., the unofficial pub crawlers were slowing down and were in need of another meal.

We danced for a bit longer at our last pub and at that point my very American friends all had a hankering for McD’s. The compliancy required when traveling in a group has had me eating at some terrible restaurants and this trip was no exception. My travel buddies craved McD’s and KFC. I will never ever ever understand those cravings. Luckily, this McDonalds had a spicy veggie burger.

Our “Unofficial Pub Crawl” was a great way to experience one of Northern Ireland’s favorite activities.

After a restless night on a paper thin hostel bed, we arose quite early for a tour of Giant’s Causeway. Only three of us decided to make the northbound journey. It was a long bus ride with a tyrannical Scottish tour guide but our final destination at the Causeway made it completely worthwhile. Another breathtaking natural phenomena in Ireland.

On our bus ride home, in true Irish style, the tour guide exposed us to some roaring Celtic tiger videos.

Our first night in the 8-bed suite, we weren’t blessed with roomies but when we entered our abode that evening, we had two new friends.

I know the hostel experience is largely memorable because of the crazy, gnarly twenty somethings everyone seems to meet at them but I wasn’t sure if I was ready.

It was LGBT pride weekend in Belfast, and our new friends were there too enjoy the celebration with the Belfast club scene. The boys were best mates and had traveled from Dublin.

They were gracious and chipper except as cute, gay men they smelled and dressed beautifully.

After chatting with our new friends, they headed to a club and we began night number two of the Belfast pub scene.

We seemed to be in the wrong area for nightlife and since we had seen so many pubs the day before, we had a hard time locating a new spot. We decided to ask a pair of local men about the pub scene and with slurred words, they directed us to the pub they were going to and offered to buy us all a drink.The hospitality continues.

One of our new friends approached one of the male’s in our group and asked him how many women and men were with us. He told him we were traveling with 4 women and 2 men.

WIth that, he ordered two pints and four half pints of Guinness. Apparently, women can’t drink an entire pint. We all had a good laugh about this one.

We spent the beginning of our evening chatting with our new friends and soon the grizzled men began to serenade us. Free half pints and a sing a long with old Irish men was a great way to end our time in Belfast.

Before heading to the train station on Sunday, we explored the city some. We had the most amazing coffee at a little cafe with our poached eggs and full Irish fixings.

We saw the Titanic trail and some of the civil rights murals. I would have loved to spend a few more days observing the interesting city.

Belfast overflowed with hospitality and congeniality, but there was some distant aura of sadness throughout the city. Behind the smiling faces and full pints, the city seemed somewhat depressed and even melancholy.

The history of Ireland’s colonization makes me wonder why that aura wasn’t greater among the Northern Irish, and I was impressed by the resilience of their happiness.

The end of this weekend was another bittersweet milestone. Another weekend past bringing us one week closer to the end of our time on the Emerald Isle.

Being away from so many of our study abroad compatriots for the weekend was strange. It was nice to have a break from the intensity of traveling in a group of 20 and the hussle bussle of Trinity’s campus. But the moment I entered good, ole building 28 I felt so at home. At that moment, I couldn’t imagine being happy anywhere else.

Back in Dublin

•July 7, 2011 • Leave a Comment

July 28, 2009

Although the congested streets of Dublin will never feel quite like home, it is comforting to have know which pubs are fun and the best route home at 2 a.m.

The mini-vacay in Sligo and Galway really set me back on my school work and upon my return to Trinity, I knew it was time to crack down.

I have been spending a lot of time catching up on schoolwork but with only a week and a half left at Trinity, I’m trying to get a lot of fun in, too.

I had been planning on waiting to shop until after travels around the isle were complete so on Wednesday and Thursday, I did some major damage around St. Stephen’s Green and Grafton. With government mandated sales in full swing, my shopping experience was very enjoyable.

I love all of the funky patterns here especially on the skirts, dresses and tights.

On Wednesday, we attended another play at the New Theatre, the Poor Mouth, about the life of a Irish country man during the famine. It was a knee-slapping black comedy–one of the most energetic we’ve seen since being here.

After the play, we made our appearances at our favorite pubs and remember why we love the Dublin night life.

We have a long weekend ahead, and we’re all looking forward to a few days without guided tours and packed schedules.

I’ll be heading to Belfast with a few people for the weekend. Our train leaves tomorrow (Friday) morning, and I’m looking forward to my first European train ride and adventures in Northern Ireland.

The Irish continue to welcome our American faux pas and cheesy smiles. I love chatting with the locals but I’m noticing more and more, the Irish that enjoy Americans are incredibly long winded.

Maybe they don’t really enjoy me or any of us in particular, they just want someone to chat at.

Bittersweet farewell

•July 7, 2011 • Leave a Comment

July 25, 2009

My day at the Aran Islands will be hard to beat throughout the rest of this trip and possibly throughout the rest of my life. Bruised knee and all, it was amazing.

Also to top off the perfect day at Inishmore, that Monday evening I ate at a Creperie downtown Galway. Sadly, I didn’t have my camera on me, but I had a scrumptious sun-dried tomato, pesto and mozzarella crepe. I snatched a menu and can’t wait to reproduce their combos– especially the peanut butter banana concoction.

The rest of the week in Galway flew by. We saw another Irish play, the Gigli Concert and got to know the pub scene downtown.

Last Wednesday, we saw a comedian, Maive Higgins, at club in Galway. Her performance was part of the Galway Arts Festival.

Her performance followed two male comedians. Throughout the performances, differences between American comedy were lucid.

Our entire group of American college kids sat in the front row and besides a few jokes aimed at our American intellect and our invasion of Club Cuba, the comedians were quite courteous in relation to popular American comedians.

They all had an incredible ability to aim their wisecracks at themselves and on the rare occasion that they made fun of others, it wasn’t snarky and personal.

The Irish humor is also quite covert at times and less obvious than a dirty Dane Cook joke.

After the show, we went to a popular Galway hangout, the Roisin Dubh. This was not just a cultural experience but a life experience because for the first time I was addressed by a bouncer and asked to leave. Not for being sloshed or obnoxious but because I forgot about the bottle of wine conveniently hibernating in my purse. For someone who has never been in a fight and rarely swears in public, this incident is one for the memory books.

The next afternoon we ended up back at the Roisin Dubh for a lunch time concert with a local folk duo. It was an awesome show, but I was mostly just happy the bouncer didn’t recognize me.

While the Irish are often encouraging spirits, getting kicked out of pub is evidence that they do occasionally enforce rules!

Friday was our last day in Galway and we went on a bus tour to the Cliffs of Moher. We had the cutest tour guide, Desmond, possibly a former leprechaun.

He filled our ears with romantic stories about the West coast of Ireland and the fairies and mythical creatures of the area. His mind was a little loose, and we heard a few stories twice, but my notion of the Irish story teller lives on through Desmond.

I’m yet to meet and Irish man or woman over the age of 30 not ready to chat away about the past.

Following our long day in the Irish mountains, we spent one last night on the town in Galway before traveling on to Sligo.

We made it to Sligo on Saturday afternoon, and upon arrival I heard many questionable whispers around about the size and pace of the sleepy little town.

But I loved it instantly. All of the buildings crammed along the river with elegant light posts and leisurely residents.

My first meal in Sligo was at a cafe right near our hotel. I had a brie and “leafy rocket” paninni with sweet tomato chutney. (I’m learning lots of new lingo– in Ireland, leafy rocket is similar to field greens.)

It was the cutest cafe with eclectic decor, friendly staff, and endless eccentric tartlets, pies and scones.

The highlight of Sligo was a day spent surfing at Strandhill Beach. After encasing myself into a musty wet suit, we hit the beach with our boards. Surrounded by green mountains and bitter turquoise saltwater, I took many spills but each time I stood up on the board made up for it. Just when body was drained, a rainbow peeked around the green slopes.

Sadly, it wasn’t all about fun in Sligo. We did a lot of work with Yeats’ poetry and history. We also had the opportunity to listen to Seamus Heaney read poetry.

We left Sligo on Tuesday, and it was a bittersweet farewell. While I was excited to be back to the immaculate Trinity dorms, I was already missing Galway. I’d soon feel the same way about Sligo. The grittiness of Sligo and the charming shores of Galway are now just memories.

Inishmore

•July 7, 2011 • Leave a Comment

I’ve been introduced to Galway. We’re hardly friends at this point, but I think it is the beginning of a love affair.

Galway is handsome and genial, and I was instantly drawn to the charming architecture of the city and the picturesque coastline.

We spent our first days in Galway exploring the city. Our walk from campus has created additional opportunities to observe the city.

In town on Sunday, we wandered through a small art fair. It was similar art festivals in the States. There was beautiful Irish artwork and jewelry and there was chintzy signage and fried food.

We had a sandwich and chips at a pub in the middle of the city. I’ve been lucky finding veggies options and every restaurant, but it seems withe every meal I choose, they are always served with thick, greasy chips.

We went to the first and “original” Cladagah ring store and were told the history of the Cladagah from a loquacious storekeeper. She was curious and friendly and if we hadn’t been on our way to the Galway Arts Festival she may have invited us in for a cup of tea.

Yesterday began early, but each minute of sleep sacrificed was worthwhile.

We took a bus from Corrib Village along the coast of Galway to the Aran Islands. The sky was gray and rain trickled down the wide windows, but the weather didn’t hinder the charm of the shore.

There were rows of pastel B&Bs to the east and deep blue waves to the west. Past the misty fog the destination was visible.

After a rocky ferry ride, we arrived at Inishmore (or Inismore in Gaelic).

Immediately the islanders badgered the tourists in an attempt to win their business for bike rentals. We pushed past and eventually found a quiet bike shop with rentals for 2 euro.

It’s about 9 miles around the island, and I smoothly started the day by slamming on the bicycle brakes and wiping out.

With a bruised knee, I followed my tourist cronies and ventured on. I had seen the beauty of the coast but with this first slow, uphill push I was overwhelmed by the natural phenomena around me.

After a few miles of riding around and numerous photo detours, we made it to the highest point of the island. I snapped photos and wandered around. The uphill bike ride had me winded. I sat down and looked at the green at my feet and the foggy blue ocean in the distance.

I was overwhelmed with the grandeur of the natural world and under my thick, dark sunglasses my eyes filled with tears. There was nothing I could do to hold back.

I’ve never felt so small and so big at the same time.

 
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